In the course of researching exhibitions, I come across a lot of information that may never make it into the final signage displayed here in the Loel Thomson Costume Collection. Recently, on the hunt for information about gloves, I came across some guidebooks on etiquette from the 1840s, laying out all the rules on polite society of the time – including how to dress.
There was, indeed, some information on the wearing of gloves: they should harmonise with one’s dress, and always be spotlessly clean. Bright colours were ‘vulgar’; the most elegant gloves were either white or primrose.
But some other rules were more surprising. For instance, it was thought that being fashionable was important even first thing in the morning, when unseen by anybody but one’s maids. ‘The most fashionable dress for a lady on first rising from bed’ included a morning gown of printed cotton, and a small muslin cap. A half-corset should also be worn, since it was ‘bad taste’ not to be laced at all. It was permissible to receive intimate friends in this outfit, but one must apologise for being seen in such a state. This morning dress should be removed as soon as possible, so as to avoid ‘embarrassments’ – despite the fact that the costume was ‘fashionable’.
Although superficially the fashions of the Victorian era were very elegant and romantic to our eye, the practicalities of maintaining ‘good taste’ would have been time-consuming. Multiple outfit changes each day, and the knowledge that a small slip-up – such as wearing too much jewellery while making morning visits – must have been exhausting. Keeping up with the ever-changing rules and fashions was virtually a full-time job in itself.
I’m quite happy to live in a time when people go shopping in their pyjamas and barely raise an eyebrow!